Shavings would also likely damage the water pump or hinder the operation of the thermostat.

 

Dude, you're already in there. Spend the $350 and install the correct part. "The poor man pays twice".

 

If you do drill (or already drilled), make sure to dip the drill bit into a grease of any soft. Shavings will catch on it rather than just fall, you can use that method to help lower risk, but I would definitely remove the pipe and not drill through with the pipes on. That way you will get shavings into your cooling system.
Let us know where you are on your journey to coolant issues free world.

 

Thank you you guys for giving me the courage! I'm so proud of myself up to this point that I have taken two days off. LOL
My next task is to drain some coolant so that it will be less of a mess when I remove the two pipes.

I'm going take my time on this.

But the funniest mishap was that T- connector in the back that everyone warned about. I didn't even touched it. I looked at it and it snapped.

 

Over the past couple of days, I tackled this project. Here are some lessons learned:

1. Purchase and replace the Coolant Vent Line prior to the job. This is easily cracked and should be replaced anyway. Photo included.
2. If you own a 2010-2014 Panamera, replace the thermostat housing with the bolted flange style. My 2011 4S had no signs of issues, but because I intended on replacing th



e thermostat, I decided to replace the housing as well. The left coolant tube slipped right out!

The job was a lot of work and not for the feint of heart, but doable with some mechanical knowledge. Thank you to those who provided very detailed descriptions!

 

Yeah, the coolant vent line (the y pipe, plastic), WILL crack if you fiddle with it any way. Then you have a car that is taken apart, with no parts to put in. Yup, might as well plan ahead. Good job.

 

Thank you Ciaka for the excellent write-up! Rock on brother, David

 

I'm at a fork on the road and would like an honest opinion from this community. If I just clean and reapply the epoxy and put it back as it was, can I go another 40k miles? I'm totally ok with doing it again in another 4-5 years.

 

I cleaned it well


Tensile strength 5000 psi and withstand 500 degrees

 

I don’t think I could live with the uncertainty of unexpected failure. My mantra is do it once and do it right. Applies to my professional life too. I’d change out the housing and never look back. Just my 2 cents of course...

 

Nikita, I suggest you upgrade for the piece of mind. The pipe is certain to pop out again and it may be at an unexpected time. For a few hundred dollars, just buy the part and be done with it.

 

My advice, would be dont ask us to make up your decision for you.
I know its easiest to go with consensus. However, remember, you put up the money for the car. You decide what feels best for you. There is no right answer here.
if you have it all apart and want to epoxy back? Sure.
want to replace with new improved part? Sure.

I would not do any epoxy other than jbweld. If I was doing that.. It would eat at me knowing, that the. Jbweld can give way any time, and I would be forced to go back in there, do repair again. These things have funny way of coming back when you least expect it.
Either way will work. One will be permanent, one will be temporary. That can last from a week,, to year or two. I would not count 4 it 5 years. Surfaces won't be prepped perfect. Some grease will be there, so believe me, 2 years is max you will get. And it will go suddenly. Often with zero warning.
If money is tight. Then this is your only play though. I fixed things with jbweld so many times, its not funny. Repaired my race bikes often that way too.
If you want go way of jbweld, clean the crap out of the area, and make sure surfaces are roughed up before you clean.
Good luck.
The jbweld i would use would be the dark one where you mix black and white i believe. It has metal particles present already.

 

@Nikita4Ever Looks like someone already tried to add supplemental adhesive to yours before.

Mine was still firmly attached (passenger side one) so I just cut a soda can and JB Weld across the joint. I'm happy and so far so good. I confess I didn't do anything to the driver side one. I thought the failures occur mostly on the passenger side....

 

@Nikita4Ever Suggestion: because I didn't realize you plan to reseal the pipe. I'm not sure you confirmed the JB Weld is coolant resistant/compatible? I mean coming into contact with the coolant will not dissolve/weaken the bond? Maybe seal the edge/tip with a coolant resistant glue and the rest with the JB Weld. I'd still soda can it to boot....

 

Has anyone actually had to drive after pipe failure? I am 99% sure mine went yesterday and had to drive a few miles to get home, engine and oil temps went to red.