Hey guys like a lot of Panamera owners I had a slight vibration and clunks, as well has one leaking LCA mount as noted at the dealership when getting pdk fluid change and oil change. The car is a 2012 Panamera TT with 42k mikes on it . here’s a expedited DYI hoping to help some people out as I could not find a DYI to just the LCA. This is how I did it I’m sure this isn’t the correct way from the manual or the best way but it worked and I only broke 1 thing along the way!

i purchased the LCA’s from FCP euro.

“Special tools needed”

you will need all your basic tools in addition you will need a
30mm 12pt (I used a 6 point and it worked) for the ball joint to knuckle connection.

Two 18mm wrenches at least one of them rachet wrench’s(I didn’t have these got them at Lowe’s for $24 for both of them.)

a set of torx bites/sockets I think the sizes you need are E11 and T 27. But should have the set if you own one of these cars

torque wrench

an impact was the way to go to break the ball joint nuts, I use a kobalt electric impact and it’s awesome and affordable had it for years and no trouble with it.

I also used two jacks as you need one on each side unless you have a lift or have a better way of jacking the car without damage, I used a regular jack and a scissor jack from my truck.

brake cleaner


there are probably plenty of other things you will need I just wanted to outline the specialty items that you may not have

- set vehicle to high setting for air ride
- disable suspension, key in, engine not running hold down lift button untill display reads system off( I forget the exact message)
- jack up vehicle, like I said I used two jacks one on each side and tried to put it as high as I could still being safe you will need the room if you don’t have a lift.
- remove under side covering I think it’s a t27 bit
- remove wheel
- remove plastic covered connected to LCA( this is a smaller plastic mud/debris cover the attaches to



- My personal trial and error says this. Located the two centric bolts that connect the LCA to the body. Mark on both sides the location for reinstalltion. First remove the two rear nuts that attach from the LCA to the body. Use 2 18mm wrenches and looser from the nut side not the bolt side!








Remove the nut then remove the bolt. Sometimes the bolt can be a pita to remove and it get stuck it’s a tight spot to get a punch in it, but by doing these first I found it easier than doing them last.


- remove steering arm that connects to LCA. It an 18 on top I used an impact this is a ball joint. After I removed the nut I threaded it back on and hit the top with a 2/3 lb hammer a couple times and it popped out.




- remove the bolt and nut that connects from the strut to the LCA I used an impact with a 18 on the buy side and an adjustable wrench on the other Becaue I didn’t have the right size 12pt socket I think it’s a 28 or 29. Remove nut and tap out bolt.






- next is the main ball joint that connects LCA to knuckle, I used a 30mm(I think) impact and used the same method as above to remove ball joint. The kit came with a new nut so wasn’t worried about damaged old one.





ok now the technical part. To remove the LCA with out have to take out anything crazy, strut, axle, brakes, I first removed the LCA from the two rear mounting points by way of hammer and finesse, removing them downward, once it’s out you can carefully remove the ball joint from the knuckle hole.





when you are done it should look like this.






First side took me about 2 hours because I was fighting with the centric bolt on one side because I removed it last instead of doing the two main mounts (that connect LCA to body) first. The other side was quick. Sorry the photos suck but I didn’t plan I’m doing a write up. Any question feel free to PM me. I think I will do the upper control
arms and sway bar bushings as well soon if I don’t end up getting rid of the car.

the only part I damaged was the vacuum line on my agency power diverted vales it’s in the way of the LCA bolt, as seen below, but I was able to remove the fitting and straight pipe it.







Turns out one side was completely blown out and the other side was about to give. I get the car is 8 years old but it only has 42k miles on it and has been garage kept most of its life. Here’s a shot of the damage.










car definitely needs an alignment, I did a quick test drive to make sure air suspension and nothing crazy happened. I did get a psm failure light, I shut it off and restarted the car and it turned off and hasn’t returned for the duration of the test drive. Car will be getting an alignment ASAP as well as I should replace the alignment bolts because two were chewed up from me trying to loosen the bolts on the wrong side (bolt side not nut side...)

got it up to 80 on the test drive which is usually when it starts to have a vibration and it feels completely smooth!! So I’m helping this was the fix I needed. I will keep this updated with further issues as it pertains to vibrations and clunking. But not a bad thing considering the dealership wanted $2200 just to replace the one blown out bushing on one side.



she’s almost ready for the race track again

 

Very nice write up! Thank you! I hope to never have to do but very clearly outlined in your DIY if and when....!

 

OP

did you end up replacing your uppers? or only the lower

 

just the lowers they were the only ones in bad shape, the upper is a little more involved, you have to remove air suspension I believe.

 

Nice! Thanks for the write up. Your PTT is still looking great!