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Nope, just pulled the air line off and let it leak out. this car is so old there isn't any N2 left in it (system is not sealed and eventually is completely air) Yves did the same thing last year when we did his car. worked fine.
I looked at the Siberian bushings and they are made the same way as the stock, they might last longer but I suspect they will fail the same way.
I’m glad to read the workaround worked for you without burning out the pump/compressor, and without having to pay for a PIWIS unit! If the system is never sealed at some point in operation it would never keep the pressure, IIRC 17 BAR. There may be valves and/or vents to atmosphere but the system tries to keep the N2 as long as there are no leaks. That’s (I guess) why the PIWIS can transfer one strut’s air, (at a time), to the accumulator (supposedly) without any loss.
I’m barely beginning to learn some of the abbreviations/acronyms, like PDCC. I opened up a hydraulic fluid reservoir yesterday wondering what it’s for, to find it a little low. There was a lot of crud on top and I finally cleaned/scraped it off. Luckily there were two part numbers on the reservoir, one for the reservoir and the other for the fluid. I had some CHS11 leftover from my wife’s ex BMW E90 so I added some.
Side note, I was able to remove the upper arm without completely taking the air strut out, just compressed it an moved it tot he side a bit. For some reason the passenger side was giving me a hard time when I tried to pull it out, I then realized it really didn't need to come all the way out.
Day 5, Short day
First thing, change the brake fluid
Wheels mounted
Car supporting its own weight once again! once we got it lowe enough to re-enable the suspension it filled up quickly and quietly
No chassis failure alerts or anything
Drove it to the end of the driveway - notice a rubbing sound coming from front right - turns out we mounted the tires on the wrong end -front in back, back in front DOH!!
Oil change
next was the rear differential oil, getting to the fill plug is a bit tricky, you need to move the air compressor out of the way
the mounting of the compressor is done by bolts and springs, but even though they parts are the same front and rear, how they go together is different between the front and rear of the compressor
(hard lesson learned last year when Yves did his car)
OK, I was the one who screwed up with the tires. My turbos are staggered with an 80mm difference between front and back. This looked more like my Cayenne, which comes with 4 identical sizes. The difference on the Pannie 4S seems to be 20mm, hardly noticeable for a retarded , I mean recently retired person.
Took yesterday off, and a slow day today, did the front diff fluid, cleaned up the engine bay(got all the trim back in place) got the wheels properly mounted and took it for a short shake down.
Then took the front off in prep for the thermostat housing and replacing the air filter
shakedown went well, felt great.
Yes plan on changing the water-pump gasket, I do believe there is something like 3 gaskets in that area that need replaced
I was thinking of the thermostat gaskets, there are a couple on there that need replaced and the one pump.
the intake manifold has a gasket at each intake port - I plan on replacing them (8) as well, Yves is going to try and reuse his
I used Ciaka's excellent write up on his starter replacement for the initial phase of replacing my thermostat housing, there are some important differences between Turbo and an NA car like mine (mostly my car was much simpler )
this is what my thermostat housing looked like, you can clearly see the signs of an imminent failure!
this literally took very little effort to pop out, just a slight tug!
old dried coolant leaks
Getting the fuel rail out wasn't too bad, one tricky bit is the connector there in the middle, you can't see the squeeze release as it is on the backside
stuck my phone under there to see what is was, clearly shows a squeeze tab
Fuel rail out, the other tricky bit is pulling it out after removing the support bolts, you need to loosen the nut holding the starter wires so you can maneuver the support under and then lift and twist the rail out
you need to remove the water pump so you can pull out the thermostat, it is in there pretty good, found a pry-bar to the back near the housing did wonders
the housing it self needs to be lifted and tilted forward to be able to get the pipe that goes into the back out
all cleaned up and ready for re-assembly
note the new updated bolt in water pipes! Assembly is pretty simple and just the reverse of disassembly it's a whole lot easier on a NA car then a Turbo
05-20-2020 | 05:02 AM
