FYI, just because it works currently doesn't mean it's OK forever. And the power supply may not be overheating, even though the dry joint (under the solder on top) might be arcing between cable strands and the PCB pad. This will only get worse over time as the copper oxidizes, and arcing creates soot further increasing resistance. A properly wetted joint will prevent both of these issues.

Good joint (in process of soldering, not complete):

Good solder wetting of copper wires


Bad Joint:

No good solder wetting of copper wire

One good part of your soldering is that you put the wire on both sides of the PCB pad to reduce the chances of the cables pulling the pad off of the PCB, which happens frequently with "too-heavy" wires soldered to PCBs. IMO there is still some risk of that with 2AWG cables if you are moving it frequently and not being careful with it, but not extreme risk.

FWIW, I would recommend people who follow this DIY NOT to use thick cables like 2AWG, the voltage drop at 50amps will be something minimal like 0.1 or 0.2V. (Actually I just crunched the numbers, it would be 0.12V with 2AWG, and 0.29V with 6AWG - that's 6 and 14.5 Watts, respectively.) Point being, you don't need 2AWG for a 50A battery charger (unless you're using 100ft cables). If you use more reasonable wire gauge, you will have a much easier, and a much safer, solder joint.

I hope it doesn't sound like I'm being too critical - it's a good DIY solution if you have the soldering tools/skills (like I said, I've done this in the past). I just want everyone to know that they need to do it properly, or else it is a safety risk as shown.

 

Seems like others have asked your same question without success:

https://simonwyss.me/blog/?p=264

I found some else asking your same question (might even be you as the post was just a few days ago):

https://forum.allaboutcircuits.com/threads/delta-dps-750pb-a-over-voltage-protection-disable.184325/

Sorry I can’t help. You might be better off sourcing the same switching power supply + daughter board in my DIY. I got mine super inexpensive on eBay.

Good luck!

 

VKB - Thanks for the great write-up! The only thing I did different was I drilled 2 1/4" holes into the board, then I soldered ring terminal ends to the end of the cables and attached them to the board with machine screws, washers and lock washers. Thanks Again

 

Hey @PhrogPhlyer! Glad you found the DIY helpful! Awesome idea to attached the cables to the board using ring terminal ends. Looks super clean! Well done!

 

do you know how remove ocp this board?

 

Sorry, I don’t know how to remove the OVP from the board.

 

Hi for my piwis 3 i use this alim : https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/1005003061466413.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.4 3.c2384b8f4b8f2f&algo_pvid=1a770791-107d-4e8f-9f3f-29d253103c71&algo_exp_id=1a770791-107d-4e8f-9f3f-29d253103c71-21&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22sku_id%22%3A%221200002408454045 3%22%7D&pdp_npi=3%40dis%21EUR%2139.1%2127.37%21%21 %21%21%21%40214527c616776916062546464d070f%2112000 024084540453%21sea%21FR%21104853166&curPageLogUid= LyqzuOcOhYvm]HERE it's very good. I've 12V/480W and it's just perfect. With regulation potentiometer i can have 13.5V and when i connect it on my Panamera i've 13V, its ok for Piwis.

 

Glad you found it helpful! If I did it again I’d probably drill into the positive and negative pads like @PhrogPhlyer and use ring terminals on the booster cables to attach with nuts and bolts. If I have time I’ll likely take apart my crude soldering and clean it up with ring terminals.

 

Thank you for putting this article together. after reading thru the whole article, I took everyone's best advice and decided to give it a run. I suck at solder but managed to make it work. I did a video for all the visual guys and posted it on youtube. gave you all guys all the credit for the smart stuff I just did the video

 

Well done and thanks for acknowledging us and this original thread in your video.

 

Thanks for this very informative post vkb123. Do you think one needs a power supply like this even if I just want to use PIWIS2 to query the state of the different inputs on the alarm module but not to do any actual coding? And to possibly actuate locks. I am having problems doing this on my 996 with Durametric and hence was looking into PIWIS2 to troubleshoot some door locking issues. Also would you mind sharing a link for where you got your Samtec interface from and which one it was (you can PM me if you prefer).

 

Glad you found it helpful. I think it depends on how strong (old) your battery is and how long you are continuously using the PIWIS. It is a power hog. That being said, likely don’t need a power supply unit for simple work. The PIWIS program will let you know when your battery voltage drops and it is not safe to continue.

I also found the Durametric very limited for work on my Porsche. I had a Professional (unlimited VIN) cable but sold it once I set up my PIWIS.

As for the VCI, search “PIWIS 2 Samtec HSX Interface” and you will come across vendors (from China) selling these units. I paid about $350 USD many years ago (probably more now). I think all the vendors sell the same units as their websites are strangely similar. For example, here is one seller:

https://www.autonumen.com/goods-5017-Porsche-Piwis-Tester-II.html

Mine looks just like this. I just bought the hardware (“Without Software” option) as I set up my PIWIS by following the steps on the Planet-9 forum.

Good luck!

 

Thanks so much for the info, vkb123. I will order one of these and go from there.

 

Thanks for the Autonumen recommendation vkb123. They came through well. Also I was able to query my alarm module just fine without the power supply, just used a Ctek battery charger connected through the session. I did get the warning about the voltage being low but had no issues with what I was doing.

 

Glad it all worked out! If you start using the PIWIS for more intensive work (such as air suspension height adjustment) the power supply unit is invaluable so keep it in mind.