My thoughts on #2 are the dealer is trying to minimize the failure reports. We see enough of them reported here and in other forums to know this IS a concern.

As far as sitting it out for the emissions warranty - as long as you're comfortable with a vehicle which may fail at any point in time, at any place - then it sounds like a fine idea to me. I wasn't comfortable with either, I'm married, and being stuck in someplace in North Dakota with the nearest dealer 700 miles away, waiting for a new $35,000 engine - just isn't going to sit well with the Mrs..

I know when to take the small ROS (spending the $$ to fix it before it breaks) in place of the potential for a very large ROS* YMM obviously V.

* ROS = Raft'O'****..

BTW - the dealer sounds about $600 high on price. Dunno where you're located, but the NJ market is one of the most expensive in the nation (according to my dealer actually) - and mine cost $2,600. They were willing to give a 10% parts discount for being in the Porsche Club of America. BTW - why are they taking off the intake? That isn't part of WC-22. The job can be done with the intake in place.

 

Hey Don,

Pittsburgh, PA. We're neighbors. I would purchase the kits myself for $600 cheaper as you stated from Suncoast and then have them do the labor if that is possible. I too thought the price was a bit ridiculous. My current peace of mind is 15% better knowing I have 11,000 instead of 1,000 miles remaining until I get the work done with it being under warranty though instead of just completely **** out of luck with no warranty whatsoever. P.S. I wanted to add he states they have only seen a few of them. IMO a few is too many. I heard the same with the transfer case and guess what.. they had to replace mine!

 

I purchased our (the Mrs. and me) 2011 CS as a CPO with almost 38,000 miles (nice little cream puff). After reading all the messages concerning this sickening problem I checked a bolt through the oil cap. According to your postings, Don, I don't have the aluminum bolts. I don't see the steel pin. I found out about this problem after we had purchased our P!G. So, a little bit of luck was on our side.

I would like to pipe in about the titanium bolts. I have been working the aviation industry almost 30 years and most of that time was with aircraft engines. Aircraft engines use A LOT of titanium. One main reason is that titanium has a high tinsel strength and does not expand as much when subjected to heat. I read somewhere that the some of the new bolts are coated and I suspect the titanium ones are due to the lack of expansion. The coating would help in maintaining grip strength and to assist in retaining the torque value as the coating is heated. As you say, Don, without visually seeing the new bolts and testing them, we are just theorizing. Just my two cents.

 

Sounds like you were one of the lucky ones where the WC-22 actually applied to your VIN#. GOOD FOR YOU!Agreed. It's all theory until we have data, and so far no one has volunteered one of the new adjusters to get the bolts out and have them tested. At around $600/each - I can't imagine volunteers are going to be jumping right up.

 

Indeed..

Some snippage..
It would seem like the V6 might have issues - but so far - I haven't seen any reports of failures from the V6. And they sell a lot more V6's than V8's.

More snippage..
Some of these "review" websites are bogus - setup to slam the competition. But the BBB pages can be quite revealing. The warranty company I ended up using had mixed reviews on the BBB pages, but where people were denied coverage it seemed actually that they misread or misunderstood the terms of the coverage they'd purchased. People who had legitimate claims seemed satisfied.

One thing on any aftermarket warranty - you want a copy of the ACTUAL CONTRACT that will be issued if you buy it. You don't want a summary, you can't believe the glossy brochure - the contract is ALL that defines what's covered and what isn't. The salesman may resist giving you a copy before you sign up - that's a good sign to RUN-AWAY, RUN-AWAY. Exactly - and from the actual contract.

Snipped again..
My wife does claim I'm excessive... dunno - 50 or so vehicles (not counting sailboats) in as many years of driving doesn't seem that bad right? Life's too short to drive boring cars..(bikes, boats..)

Snipped a bit..
They won't be able to check the port side adjuster unless they do some disassembly (unlikely) - no oil filler cap on that side. I think you can safely assume both were done if the starboard one was done.
Excelsior! (see if you know where that came from..)

 

My understanding is that the V6s don't have the same Variocam as the V8s. Is this not the case? This bolt failure issue is tied directly to a specific part made by a specific manufacturer (not made by Porsche). If that part does not exist in the V6s, they won't have the problem.

 

No real updates as of now.... I just left an other message with PORSCHE field rep Kerry West, hoping that Scott of Pasadena Porsche can move along faster, it's been a week, how long does it take to remove a head and inspect it? I'm guessing if it was his daily it would be 2-hours.


Information made available by Porsche when calling for the replacement for my Cayenne Turbo

Screw removed from my new low miles motor

Screw removed from my new low miles motor

Photo of the replacement cam and adjuster screws already installed.

Photo of the replacement cam and adjuster screws already installed.

 

Perhaps - if they can remove the head with the engine in the vehicle. The factory service manual says engine removal is required:

This is followed by about 50 pages of detailed instructions on everything that has to be disconnected in order to remove the engine - including rather obviously - draining the cooling system, and evacuating and recycling the HVAC refrigerant.

It seems this might take a bit longer than 2 hours.

When my '11 had the engine removed in order to rework the heads - the dealer DID remove the engine/transmission/driveline/radiator/etc. The front of the engine has to come off so the timing chains can be removed.

In the case of my engine - the dealership was paying out of their pocket to do this work - so I'm sure it wasn't a case of doing an iota more work then was actually necessary.

The work on my engine was only done after the dealership had done a leakdown test to check for bent valves (which they were pretty sure of) and then a scope down the plug hole to look at the piston tops to check for any damage. I suspect if there had been piston damage it would have been new engine time. Luckily - there was none. The valves hit each other. This apparently is the more likely scenario. I would think your dealership could do the same before deciding if they want to pull the heads.

BTW - nice pics - a tad big. If you poke around a bit there are some photos of BAD BOLTS and GOOD BOLTS - and how to identify them, and how to check for the BAD BOLTS before the engine goes blooey (tech-term.)

 

$575 for the adjuster at Sonnen Porsche:
http://www.sonnenporscheoemparts.com...he/94810505123

 

That's about what my dealer charged me when they replaced mine.. mebbe $600, but no more than that.

 

Hey PGH,

Since they're Porsche Parts, you could throw the Suncoast price quote at them & say, either match the parts prices or you'll get the parts & have them do the install (you may be able to have the parts shipped to you c/o the P-dealer).

I know folks here in SoCal who have done that on adding the Cay tow hitch when the locals wants double the cost from Suncoast Porsche in FL, or from Sunset Porsche in Portland - which is often less than Suncoast, so check them too.

Although I'm SoCal since `63 when the family was moved to San Diego with my Dad's new job - I'm still a Steelers, Bucs & Hornets err Penguins fan!

Good Luck!
Tom
///////

 

Don & others -

Based on my 1st post on pg. 30 about how bad the 3rd party warranties/ESCs are - & since we're looking to buy a 2008-14 CS -

What 3rd party warranties or extended service contract are you on?
.... & any experience on claims with them yet?

Otherwise if none are really good, then I'm guessing that only the Porsche CPO is going to give any coverage on this issue.

We see a 2011 CS with P-CPO in Houston which has a 6/10 build date per the VIN sticker, so I'll definitely have them send me pix of the p/n/s &/or screws & to confirm the WC-22 applicability or if already done.

TIA,
Tom
///////

 

I have a "Preferred Plus Plan" - I'll see if I can attach a listing of what it claims to cover.

Since I haven't made a claim against it - I can't speak as to any experience with them covering items.




Hopefully that's readable. The actual contract goes into more detail - but this is an accurate representation of what's covered per the contract.

 

Thanx Don,

From what I can glean from reviews, it's not so much what a plan covers - but how & whether the company covers/pays or finds ways out of it. I don't know how much to trust the online ratings unless from Consumer Reports (which hasn't rated them, but should), but PWI is on one red star & way down the list & close to the Fidelity rating, if you click on "see all" at the link below, then click on the PWI it takes you to the reviews & info on them.

https://www.consumeraffairs.com/auto_warranty/#

https://www.consumeraffairs.com/auto...preferred.html

PS - I generally throw out the reviews where the complainer didn't read the docs, or made some stupid error like driving 100 miles with the CEL on, etc.

.

ALL -

So in addition to this cam adjuster screw issue - what other issues should I be scrutinizing on any 958 CS that we consider?

Cardan Shaft/Mid-Bearing & shaft to Trans rear seal, transfer case &/or diff/ seals?

Front Upper Control Arm Bushings?

.... others??

Is there any PPI Checklist for the 958s floating around?

TIA,
Tom
///////

 

Since I had no way of vetting the "review" sites for bogus (false-news) ones - I pretty much ignored them. Consumers doesn't rate the companies as you found, but I seem to remember them discounting the value of any aftermarket warranty..

I bought the policy based on BBB ratings. And reading the comments/complaints there. In cases where the person's expectations were reasonable - the warranty satisfaction was good.

https://rennlist.com/forums/cayenne-...his-first.html

Happily - the list of got'cha items on the 958's is very short compared to the 955 series and better by a bit than the 957 series. There are really two concerns:

1. The Variocam bolt issue - limited to 2011 and a few 2012 vehicles
2. The Transfer-Case issue - unfortunately covering ALL gasoline models (not an issue apparently on the diesel and hybrid - which use a different case.)

Cardan shaft not an issue, coolant pipes not an issue, control arm bushings - normal wear/tear - not an issue, automatic transmission - not an issue, random weird electrical stuff - not an issue. Pano-Roof - not an issue. Peeling wheel buttons - not an issue. Splitting cooling reservoir - not an issue.

There are a few reported instances of a glue-in pipe on the cross-over bridge between the cylinder heads on the V8 engines coming loose. It has happened on the 958, but much more frequently reported on the 957 V8's. Might be age related - or maybe they got the glue on better. In the later 958's this went to a threaded fitting.

There will always be items popping up - but ones that are endemic seem quite limited on the 958 series.


BTW - I think the last few posts have really wandered off-topic for the thread - so if you want to continue the discussion on warranties - lets take it to a thread that applies (or start a new one.)