Okay, I've got this posted up on Rennlist for the past couple days but nobody is really playing there. So I'll try you guys because you're undoubtedly smarter.

About 90% of the time when I insert the key and turn it to the ACC position the following happens: all lights come on in instrument panel, a fast audible ticking or clicking begins, perhaps 2-3 clicks per second. Sounds like it's coming from behind the right side of upper IP. It lasts exactly 10 seconds. The instant it ends the gauge needles (fuel, temp if the car's warm, ammeter), which had lain dormant against their pegs, spring to life and scuttle up to the proper position. Everything works properly from then on.

It also happens when you turn the key to off. Needles immediately go dead as they should, but ticking ensues for exactly 10 seconds. This happens about the same frequency of time as on startup.

If you don't wait the 10 seconds for the ticking to stop, but just go ahead and turn to IGNITION, the car fires normally, but the ticking continues for the 10 seconds, and none of the guages, including now the oil pressure guage and tach, work till the ticking stops. But all lights in the dash and the OBC display, clock, temp, etc work perfectly. Once the ticking stops there are no other indications of any trouble whatsoever.

One final data point: when the ticking incident DOESN'T happen, the gauges snap to attention immediately, just like they should, so the 10-second-ticking and the delayed tach/fuel/temp/OP/ammeter needles are definitely intertwined.

PO took car to dealer and to Motor Werks Racing and neither could solve without tearing into it. I confirmed with the dealer before buying that they had looked at it and PO hadn't wanted them taking dash apart. I suspect dealer's answer would be a quick Let's Put a new IP in for $3000. Since it's been doing it at least 4 years and doesn't seem to affect anything, I'm not interested in doing that.

So, just wondering if there's any good ideas out there of ways to run this down without pulling anything apart? I can sorta get a hand up under the dash if need be.

 

Check the schematic for relays that go to the IP.

 

probably not.. but really.. why are you doing this?..
is the remaining 10% of the time when clicks don't *happen*, all else is seemingly ok? if so? maybe try that more often. you don't need to *prime* it lol. just turn the f'in key and go man

you're probably finding: the car has sound/quirks and noises, and if so you'll soon learn to differentiate them, as many of us have. clicks at startup while a/c vents shutter and fuel pumps awaken.. are normal. though maybe you have different stuff going on that warrants genuine inquiry. sounds like a 96t at startup,.. but not.

 

Okaaaay... Thanks!

My thought would be that if both Hennessy Porsche and Motor Werks Racing had taken the car in on service and felt they needed to take the dash apart to diagnose the problem, maybe it's not the normal sounds associated with car startup. And in fact, nobody who heard this sound would think that. It is not remotely like the normal sounds of vent's and fuel pumps. I've been owning late-model Porsches for quite awhile, very familiar with normal sounds.

My hope is that someone on here had encountered this or something similar and could offer a suggestion as to cause.

Cheers!

 

let me see if i've got this right?

you hear a problem ( ticking ).. and your belief that a problem ( ticking ) *might* exist is bolstered by the fact that two different and seemingly unconnected entities whose daily endeavors and even income is derived from, and consists of, diagnosis and repair of porsche's,..

. who might further be willing to investigate these heretofore and yet unrecognized by *them* ( and many? ) as "ticking sounds/noises".. by taking apart your dashboard?? is this a spec deal?

and that's ok with you? must be a helluva clickin'. like i said; i get clicks too, but only if i don't start the car, but rather leave it on acc ( that is if i would lol ) ymmv.

so don't sweat the unbroken sh*t! just start the car.. enough will break for real. cheers

 

Thanks for your analysis. Actually, I haven't taken the car into anybody. The two owners prior to me took it in to the two different shops seeking a diagnosis. Apparently, like me, they felt it was puzzling enough to warrant investigation. Too bad they didn't have the sense to seek the obvious expertise of the internet, as I have. Their loss, huh?

 

c'mon. bro. just have fun with the car.. and find a cute girl to check for ticks

 

Any codes stored or pending?

 

Nope, no codes.

 

Wow. I was just checking out your profile. It's 6:55 am Eastern time, you joined this board today and you already have 35 posts? That's got to be a record. Are all of them as insightful as this one?

 

I have the clicking you describe sometimes. It kind of reminds me of when a car tries to start with a low battery.

You might try checking the dash fuse and replacing just to see if it helps.

But I'm kind of with the other guys...........if it ain't broke..........keep in mind that it's a 10yr old car and just drive the thing.

 

guy was even less helpful than me! lol. at least i'm not drinkin and drivin
thanks for bein a sport about it.

 

It's all good

 

I got a new data point.

This morning, while the ticking was ocurring, I tried pushing up on the underside of the gauge pod that holds the fuel level and temp gauges. When I pushed, the noise changed pitch and when I pushed harder it stopped altogether and the needles sprung up. This was repeatable on every instance. Never did pushing up "cure" the problem for subsequent starts or stops, but it stopped the ticking immediately. :dunno:

Pushing up on the adjacent gauge pods (there are five, this is 4th from the left) doesn't stop the process, but I can get a small change in pitch of the ticking. But as mentioned, the needle sticking feature affects all five of the pods. So it looks to be a completely mechanical problem of some sort, wouldn't it seem?

 

it certainly does ( he says sheepishly ).. sounds like an ( electrical? ) gauge cluster issue ( duh ). not at all like startup "clicks"... this is sobering news
pretty sure the gauges can be rebuilt ( cheaper) but what a hassle. how to test their integrity, i don't know. perhaps one of the regulars here has a schematic?