Bentley GT strange fault and noise
#1
Bentley GT strange fault and noise
Hello there guys,
I am back after I installed the alternator from Johnny Hotspur GT, The car it self now i drivable but this strange tree kinda sign came on the dash, and the dash isn't broken or cracked !!!
Also I have included a youtube video of the noise coming from the engine.
Hope to receive some help here.
I am back after I installed the alternator from Johnny Hotspur GT, The car it self now i drivable but this strange tree kinda sign came on the dash, and the dash isn't broken or cracked !!!
Also I have included a youtube video of the noise coming from the engine.
Hope to receive some help here.
#3
I had to google Lichtenberg figure and it's guess the car got shocked by a thunder or somethin
Any Idea how to fix it or a lead to follow ?
#4
Never seen anything like it, apart from high voltage patterns!
#6
I am refunding the money for the alternator, I am not happy about it as it was a tested and in proper working order unit when shipped, something killed the OP's original alternator, and now the one I sent him, he said it was charging and the vehicle was operable after the install, and a video showed the battery light on during bulb check at startup, then go out while running, as it should, now the vehicle I am told is not running, he did say he had a noise after the install of the alternator, but a video taken at the top of the intake does not pinpoint the alternator as the point of the noise, the alternator made no noise at all during bench test, and it put out between 13.5 and 14.1 volts during said testing.
A picture of the artwork nature made on my B.
Johnny
...
A picture of the artwork nature made on my B.
Johnny
...
#7
I am refunding the money for the alternator, I am not happy about it as it was a tested and in proper working order unit when shipped, something killed the OP's original alternator, and now the one I sent him, he said it was charging and the vehicle was operable after the install, and a video showed the battery light on during bulb check at startup, then go out while running, as it should, now the vehicle I am told is not running, he did say he had a noise after the install of the alternator, but a video taken at the top of the intake does not pinpoint the alternator as the point of the noise, the alternator made no noise at all during bench test, and it put out between 13.5 and 14.1 volts during said testing.
A picture of the artwork nature made on my B.
Johnny
...
A picture of the artwork nature made on my B.
Johnny
...
Again sorry for the inconvenience I have also wasted a lot of time and money in this.
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#8
I Confirm receiving the refund and also I have provided you with videos showing noises as discussed, The car started with scratching/whining noise immediately after this alternator was installed and for 2-3 days noise was very loud and then it died, unfortunately I have to look now for an alternator as the PSH alternator is sold out, perhaps someone in the united states bought it !!
Again sorry for the inconvenience I have also wasted a lot of time and money in this.
Again sorry for the inconvenience I have also wasted a lot of time and money in this.
I am too sorry for you wasted time and money, BUT I have great concern that you have other issues that are causing the alternators failures, as I have said, the unit I sent you was bench tested and was all in working order, it supplied the proper voltage and had no adverse sounds at all during the test, I do have another unit on a 2004 engine from Canada by way of Florida as a salvage vehicle , carfax and autocheck show the vehicle at 46710 KM or 29024 miles, but I would need time to remove the alternator and bring it to the electrical shop for testing, this time I will video the test to share with you, it would be the same amount as before being you have the belt, let me know.
Now what really concerns me is the message on whats app, and please do not take offense, but you wrote that you would now have to "again pay $450 labor and new batteries", you won't need new batteries if they are already new, just a recharge, yet the video you sent me shows the battery light on with key in the on position, yet when you crank it over and it starts, the battery light goes out, I only mention this because that video shows it working as it should, now to my concern, and please again I mean not to offend, I believe you meant $450 just for the labor, and not the batteries, and if you only paid $450 labor to have a shop install the alternator in a Bentley GT, I have concern of the shops knowledge and workmanship, as I believe that "Tree Branch" high voltage fault on your center display is a result of a short, bad module, or the work done during the installation, like being sure both batteries where disconnected during such work, I just don't see how a perfectly working alternator as it was when shipped would make noise and fail to charge after so many days of driving, just my thoughts.
Johnny
...
#9
Hello Abdusalam,
I am too sorry for you wasted time and money, BUT I have great concern that you have other issues that are causing the alternators failures, as I have said, the unit I sent you was bench tested and was all in working order, it supplied the proper voltage and had no adverse sounds at all during the test, I do have another unit on a 2004 engine from Canada by way of Florida as a salvage vehicle , carfax and autocheck show the vehicle at 46710 KM or 29024 miles, but I would need time to remove the alternator and bring it to the electrical shop for testing, this time I will video the test to share with you, it would be the same amount as before being you have the belt, let me know.
Now what really concerns me is the message on whats app, and please do not take offense, but you wrote that you would now have to "again pay $450 labor and new batteries", you won't need new batteries if they are already new, just a recharge, yet the video you sent me shows the battery light on with key in the on position, yet when you crank it over and it starts, the battery light goes out, I only mention this because that video shows it working as it should, now to my concern, and please again I mean not to offend, I believe you meant $450 just for the labor, and not the batteries, and if you only paid $450 labor to have a shop install the alternator in a Bentley GT, I have concern of the shops knowledge and workmanship, as I believe that "Tree Branch" high voltage fault on your center display is a result of a short, bad module, or the work done during the installation, like being sure both batteries where disconnected during such work, I just don't see how a perfectly working alternator as it was when shipped would make noise and fail to charge after so many days of driving, just my thoughts.
Johnny
...
I am too sorry for you wasted time and money, BUT I have great concern that you have other issues that are causing the alternators failures, as I have said, the unit I sent you was bench tested and was all in working order, it supplied the proper voltage and had no adverse sounds at all during the test, I do have another unit on a 2004 engine from Canada by way of Florida as a salvage vehicle , carfax and autocheck show the vehicle at 46710 KM or 29024 miles, but I would need time to remove the alternator and bring it to the electrical shop for testing, this time I will video the test to share with you, it would be the same amount as before being you have the belt, let me know.
Now what really concerns me is the message on whats app, and please do not take offense, but you wrote that you would now have to "again pay $450 labor and new batteries", you won't need new batteries if they are already new, just a recharge, yet the video you sent me shows the battery light on with key in the on position, yet when you crank it over and it starts, the battery light goes out, I only mention this because that video shows it working as it should, now to my concern, and please again I mean not to offend, I believe you meant $450 just for the labor, and not the batteries, and if you only paid $450 labor to have a shop install the alternator in a Bentley GT, I have concern of the shops knowledge and workmanship, as I believe that "Tree Branch" high voltage fault on your center display is a result of a short, bad module, or the work done during the installation, like being sure both batteries where disconnected during such work, I just don't see how a perfectly working alternator as it was when shipped would make noise and fail to charge after so many days of driving, just my thoughts.
Johnny
...
My alternator was replaced. Sometime after, I noticed the snowflakes on my instrument cluster LCD too. The same has happened to my Satnav screen. So it does seem like some 'accepted' work method is being used across cheap shops (Ill admit my indy isnt the most fancy or knowledgable) that our aged LCDs dont take to very well.
Anyhoo, the fix for the instrument cluster LCD is a replacement from a salvage unit. Phaeton clusters are usually the best value on ebay and the LCD can be swapped. AliExpress also has replacmeent LCDs, part number 3W0920852A
Now, with replaced alternator, the car would start but after a few mins electronics would start shutting off one by one and the car eventually would die also. The workshop said the replaced alternator is bad or "weak".
So I dug in hard and spent two weeks measuring voltages.
I discovered that the left big battery wasnt charging. It was a faulty battery ECU (located behind the left battery). Replaced that and it started receiving a charge and car became normal, no more consumer electronic shut off mid-drive.
Hence, if anyone reading this is diagnosing, dont be quick to fault the alternator.
However, my voltage on the left side battery hovers between 12.0-12.6v. My right side battery does 13.4 to 13.7v. Left battery is Varta and fairly new.
So my question now is, what could be causing left side battery to NOT go above 13v when idling? Is the battery relay a possible concern maybe? How do I test alternator output via scanner?
#11
My left side battery never reaches 13v even after a spirited drive. Do you see 13.6v while idling?
#13
Thanks! That's exactly what I needed to know. My alternator seems unable to supply enough juice to the left side battery to reach 13v or above. What year is your car?
#14
I know this thread is 4 years old, but was just reading through alternator threads (to determine if the replaced one on mine is bad), and wanted to add my experience with diagnosis.
My alternator was replaced. Sometime after, I noticed the snowflakes on my instrument cluster LCD too. The same has happened to my Satnav screen. So it does seem like some 'accepted' work method is being used across cheap shops (Ill admit my indy isnt the most fancy or knowledgable) that our aged LCDs dont take to very well.
Anyhoo, the fix for the instrument cluster LCD is a replacement from a salvage unit. Phaeton clusters are usually the best value on ebay and the LCD can be swapped. AliExpress also has replacmeent LCDs, part number 3W0920852A
Now, with replaced alternator, the car would start but after a few mins electronics would start shutting off one by one and the car eventually would die also. The workshop said the replaced alternator is bad or "weak".
So I dug in hard and spent two weeks measuring voltages.
I discovered that the left big battery wasnt charging. It was a faulty battery ECU (located behind the left battery). Replaced that and it started receiving a charge and car became normal, no more consumer electronic shut off mid-drive.
Hence, if anyone reading this is diagnosing, dont be quick to fault the alternator.
However, my voltage on the left side battery hovers between 12.0-12.6v. My right side battery does 13.4 to 13.7v. Left battery is Varta and fairly new.
So my question now is, what could be causing left side battery to NOT go above 13v when idling? Is the battery relay a possible concern maybe? How do I test alternator output via scanner?
My alternator was replaced. Sometime after, I noticed the snowflakes on my instrument cluster LCD too. The same has happened to my Satnav screen. So it does seem like some 'accepted' work method is being used across cheap shops (Ill admit my indy isnt the most fancy or knowledgable) that our aged LCDs dont take to very well.
Anyhoo, the fix for the instrument cluster LCD is a replacement from a salvage unit. Phaeton clusters are usually the best value on ebay and the LCD can be swapped. AliExpress also has replacmeent LCDs, part number 3W0920852A
Now, with replaced alternator, the car would start but after a few mins electronics would start shutting off one by one and the car eventually would die also. The workshop said the replaced alternator is bad or "weak".
So I dug in hard and spent two weeks measuring voltages.
I discovered that the left big battery wasnt charging. It was a faulty battery ECU (located behind the left battery). Replaced that and it started receiving a charge and car became normal, no more consumer electronic shut off mid-drive.
Hence, if anyone reading this is diagnosing, dont be quick to fault the alternator.
However, my voltage on the left side battery hovers between 12.0-12.6v. My right side battery does 13.4 to 13.7v. Left battery is Varta and fairly new.
So my question now is, what could be causing left side battery to NOT go above 13v when idling? Is the battery relay a possible concern maybe? How do I test alternator output via scanner?
A bad battery can ruin an alternator. The alternator will over work trying to charge a defective battery
Last edited by 1eapplebaum; Yesterday at 03:49 PM.
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