I am extremely impressed with the collaboration on this forum.I recently purchased a 2006 Flying Spur. Prior to the purchase, I was very concerned about the common vacuum cracked pipe issue. It was @Stevieshutts earlier post showing his brilliant idea on the copper pipe by pass to abandon all of the plastic vacuum lines behind the fire wall that was my tipping point.

So I bought the car. This was largely based on my new confidence that I wouldn't have to do a full 'motor out' as the dealer suggested. I wanted to make sure I completed this vacuum project correctly and it was then @Johnny Hotspur GT GT video clip (motor out) view of this entire vacuum plumbing that was the second item that was so insightful in solving this expensive issue.

See:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hJIFcur1OEM&t=14s

I took both of these posts and then jumped in on my own car. After removing the fender liners I disconnected the pass. side rack and pinion at the ball joint. I wired it up high to the ceiling and retracted the rack all the way to the right, giving maximum access into the vacuum plumbing connections behind the rack. With long nose hose pliers I was able to save the right angle elbow shown in the attached slides. This elbow is connected to "T" no. 2 in the attached slides. Then it was simply a matter of adding the new aluminum line under the subframe to two new “T”’s on the passenger side. This re-enabled all of the vacuum functions and fully abandons the original line that remains dormant behind the rack. After final fitting I smoke tested the entire system and had zero leaks. I created the attached slides for the next guy who has to confront this issue. Hope it helps.

A very sincere thanks to @Stevieshutts and @Johnny Hotspur GT GT for initiative and creativity.

What a great forum.

 

Congratulations, a very good feeling I'm sure!
I've recently purchased a great running 05' GT but really have angst over the potential for a vacuum line leak.
Is it possible to do this bypass solution on a 05'?
thank you!

 

Yes, my understand is that the fenderwell design and vacuum terminations are the same on these two models. Gook luck. It's not that hard to do.

 

Hello @Paulcain @Watercolor ,
Sorry, but, that is not correct, the 2003-06.5 GT's also have the vacuum lines down the back of the engine and over the top of the transmission, these years of GT require the engine transmission package to be removed to repair the lines at the rear of the engine and over the transmission, the rack area lines like the Flying Spur on the GT can be repaired as you did.

Johnny

 

I originally found that when running the vacuum bypass under the subframe, my pump would turn on turning acceleration. My assumption is that the extension of the line caused a drop in pressure when vacuum was needed as maybe 6-8 feet of vac line was added to the system.

I first ended up cutting and capping the line in the passenger wheel well. That completely eliminated the pump turn-on, but also disabled the EVAP purge system so I'd get a CEL every 100 miles or so.

I then decided to reroute my bypass upwards rather than downwards, connect to the solenoids at the back of the engine, and then head on to the passenger wheel well and connect the rest of the system including EVAP. I only rarely hear my pump on acceleration now, and mostly only on cold start acceleration, and my system works perfectly all around, for 3 years now.

 

Thank you for the update @silvertonesx24 !

Johnny

 

Welcome to 6speedonline @Paulcain & @Watercolor !

Johnny

 

@Johnny - Hi, new member. Just wanted to clarify something. I saw you post in many places that all the Flying Spurs have the lines at the firewall, not over transmission. Purchased a 2006 flying spur. Has the lines over the transmission, full T section, all 3 vac lines on trans at T junction split. Mechanic sent borescope video evidence. Engine out job.

 

Hello @rsebastien1993 ,
Welcome to 6speedonline !

As to your 2006 Flying Spur, would you kindly post a picture of you VIN plate showing the production date, along with a picture of the apparatus under the "B" cover at the rear of the intake manifold ?

As to your comment as to me stating that the FS 's have the lines at the firewall, all the vehicles, be it a GT, GTC, or even the Flying Spur, have vacuum lines at the firewall, the early GT's had lines/circuits over the transmission with the solenoids, whereas the Flying Spur had these same circuit lines and solenoids up behind the intake manifold under the "B" cover, it is NOT that the lines were relocated from the top of the transmission to the firewall, I never said that, I explained that they are different circuits, and that all models still have the lines along the firewall, regardless of the location of the solenoids and the other vacuum circuit lines.

The Flying Spur to my knowledge, and many others that I have spoke with, along with parts descriptions, never had the lines and solenoids over the top of the transmission, I have seen many 2006 Flying Spur engine transmission packages, and not one ever had the setup on the top of the transmission.

Here are just two 2006 Flying Spur engines with VIN plate to verify the production date, one being 10/2005, along with showing the solenoids at the rear of the intake manifold, this means that there is nothing on the top of the transmission of either Flying Spur, again, if the two gray solenoids are at the rear of the intake manifold, there is nothing on the transmission.

Which makes me wonder, is your engine transmission package original to your vehicle, or is it an early 2005 06.5 GT replacement, I went through all of this when searching for a engine transmission package in the very early stages of my GT rebuild, I was stubbornly looking for a GT package with all the lines and solenoids over the transmission when so many Flying Spur packages were available, but none had the GT setup, I was thinking that I had to have all of the apparatus on the top of the transmission, but none of the Spur's had it, then when Jason Giannetti told me of all the leaks, I went the other way, so, now I have a 2011 Supersports engine transmission package in my 05 GT

Or, is it possible that you have a very early unicorn, that would be interesting.

I await your response with production date, and what's under the "B".

Johnny

.

 

@ Johnny

VIN: SCBBR53W76C034040
Prod: 10/2005
Picture attached as requested , just took the picture myself (picture with orange hoses)

Also added 2nd picture that I stole off this forum and circled the T-Junction that I am referring to that sits on top of my transmission, with all 3 hoses at T-junction completely cracked open per borescope.

All of the combined vacuum information on the forums always implies the same, Flying Spur = engine out not required (steering rack method possible instead).

1. I have Rosstech VCDS. Couldn't locate cpu vin number using VCDS though. Any way to do this to see if engine/cpu was swapped and thus has mismatching vin?
2. Do you know where vin would be stamped on engine block?

 

Hello @rsebastien1993 ,
Did you actually see the borescope picture live in person, because your picture of your own vehicle with the orange hoses shows that you have the Flying Spur setup with nothing on the top of the transmission that has to do with any vacuum lines or solenoids, as your solenoids are just where I said they would be, that is, under the "B" cover.


The VIN is NOT stamped on the block, but there is a control number on the drivers side face of the block, under the cylinder head, you can call Bentley with that number to get a range of what year and or model the engine went into.

The VIN by ECU is possible, it should automatically show up in a scan, but an engine swap doesn't always mean that the twin ecu's would have been swapped, they can be the original ecu's with an engine replacement, BUT, as per your picture with the orange hoses that has the solenoids visible, I think someone is not clearly giving you correct information, or doesn't know what they are looking at over the transmission, as all that should be over the transmission is a coolant pump and hoses/pipes, and there is no way to confuse the two, as the coolant hoses are 3/4" diameter, not the tiny vacuum lines, or they have other motives as to cost of labor...

You can see in the picture you took from here, that the two solenoids are on top of the transmission, that is the GT setup, to be more clear, the vehicles do not have the solenoids in both locations at the same time, there are not four solenoids, only two, and you have the two up top where they belong on a Flying Spur.

Edit: How did the borescope supposedly see any tees and or cracked lines, when there is a black plastic shield covering the complete assembly... that is, as it is on the GT, as shown in my pictures of the GT setup below, something is fishy here.


Johnny

 

I will take it to another place to have 2nd opinion done, as I wasn't there while borescope was being slid up over trans.
I will also go under the car and try to slide my own borescope over the trans myself.
Throws a brake booster implausible code, which led to smoke test, which led to vacuum leak discovery.

Also throws a P0171 running lean bank 1 code with the brake booster code, probably due to the vac leak.
Idles perfect.
Brake booster only turns on 50% of the time when using brakes, and when it does turn on it stays on for 20-30 seconds as intended.
Meaning, no symptoms of vac leak, other than running lean code.

Anyone ever melt holes in their piston tops on these engines from driving around like this (lean)?
Anyone know a fair priced Bentley mechanic anywhere within 500 miles of Los Angeles. Everyone in LA charges $200/hr. So engine out for example @ 40 hours + tax would be $9k.

 

how you checked that?

 

@sazam

Get in car and close doors.
Turn music off, ac off, windows up, on a dry non-rainy day to eliminate outside noise.
Find a quiet road with stop signs/stop lights to drive on.
Drive a few miles back and forth.

The brake booster will be located in front of you around the front driver-side wheel area.
When you brake to stop for a stop sign or stop-light, see how often the brake booster turns on.
When you brake for other traffic intermittently, see how often the brake booster turns on.
Whenever it does turn on, count on a timer how many seconds go by until it turns off.

It WILL turn on at some point. It is a higher pitched constant whining or humming noise.

 

@rsebastien1993 @sazam ,
I have to say, I have never heard my vacuum pump run, even once, if it is running, it is extremely quiet, and I have no leaks or codes, it was a brand new original pump for a Lamborghini, but looks, mounts, and plugs in the same way.

I will say, that in my years of reading here and other places online, it is always a noisy pump that follows a vacuum line leak, as the pump is wearing out do to being overworked by the leak/s, maybe that is why some can hear their pumps running, and I dont recall it being 20-30 seconds of run time, maybe 10-15 seconds, but I guess that depends on the size of the leak, of which circuit and check valves are involved when the pump is running.

I will make it a point to listen for the pump, and I would think that just sitting still pumping the brake pedal while idling in your driveway would use up more vacuum reserve and cause the pump to activate, compared to slowing to a stop, in which case the engine is decelerating and off boost, which in turn creates a high vacuum level without the need for the pump to activate, unless there is a sufficient leak.

@rsebastien1993
I would also be asking your mechanic/shop for a video of the borescope inspection they performed, hopefully they have a good borescope with the SD card to share the file, as I just spoke with Jason to confirm what I have always said, and he agrees, your 2006 Flying Spur does NOT have the vacuum lines/solenoids apparatus over the top of the transmission, at least by the factory original design, and he further agrees that according to your photo (orange hoses) showing the solenoids up top behind the intake manifold, that you have nothing over the tranny, you can not have both setups in the vehicle running at the same time.

As to the cost of the engine out job, our friend Jason does it for five kay, but he is in NC, and that would run you 1500 in shipping one way... you could ship one way, and then fly in and drive home, just a thought, I don't know what else to say as far as anyone near your area, as I have no clue, I just know Jason for years, and many hear have dealt with him, with only high praise of his work, and most importantly, his personality and honesty.

Are you mechanically inclined to do the job, if so, some here will walk you though the job, there are other threads here to follow also.

Johnny