Turns out my CTEK MXS 5.0 charger was on a wall circuit that was part of a leg with a GFI. At some point that GFI tripped and thus the charger was no longer dong it's job. When I reset the GFI and tried to use the charger all I'd get was a flashing green power light on it which in theory means it's not connected to a battery. I'm using the accessory socket plug in the trunk next to the Battery Disconnect Switch.

My 2009 Vantage Roadster, which I replaced the battery in January of 2022 was "dead" Not enough juice to even show a dash light. I hooked up jumper cables and that gave me dash lights.

Here's where I'm sure I messed up. At that point, I thought I'd just hook up my trickle charger and complete the task of bringing my battery to life. However, when I went to do that I hit the Battery Disconnect Switch.

That in turn killed all the lights in the cabin even when I hooked up jumper cables. With jumper cables connected I then tried to reset the BDS per the manual by inserting the vehicle key into the Ignition Control but that didn't bring any lights back nor after repeated attempts, the vehicle would not start nor even make a sound. Even searched for a reset button behind my driver's seat like previous models had but saw nothing there either.

Not sure what to do next with my "dead" Vantage as it sits in my garage.

So here I am saying HELP !!! Any thoughts?

 

First….forget about using that stupid plug in the trunk. It will work it’s way out of the socket then you’re screwed. Use the underhood terminal for charging.

 

Well, I'm definitely at the "you're screwed" part

 

Hi @gr8car

On the Ctek blinking - How/why was the GFCI circuit tripped? Was there a weather event? Asking BC there might have been a surge which could have tripped that circuit. On the Ctek, whatever accessory you're using, it is fused. So, if a surge took out the circuit, it might have blown the Ctek fuse. Look for it here:





On the car connect, I hace to strongly agree about the access point in the trunk. On my DB11, which has a trunk magnetic access point, I used the Ctek ring terminals, and permanently mounted them to the power distribution point under the hood. To connect, I do have to open the hood, then just plug in the Ctek at its access point. The blue arrow shows the fuse link on the accessory.

 

Determined the GFI trip was due to a short in an old refrigerator...

As far as a fuse on the CTEK, no issue there. But I will be getting the ring terminals you have as a solution going forward.

Right now the priority is getting the car to start.

Thanks again

 

I check my CTEK lights all the time, seems to lose it's handshake with the car at times, for no reason. Unplug and plug back in usually works. My original battery went dead and was similar to yours, would not take a charge or jump start. I left CTEK plugged in, so car would not lose any settings, then replaced the battery. Car started right up. I agree the trunk connection is not well made, that's why I monitor the CTEK lights, if the green light is flashing, it has disconnected itself. Also if I don't drive the car for long periods I will unplug the CTEK for several days before plugging it back in.

If it would me I would start by installing a new battery.

 

First take a deep breath! I would remove the 2022 "new" battery and have it tested at the place of purchase. If it's not up to testing perfect ask for a replacement. Because Astons don't like poor batteries I change mine as a part of PM (4 years max) The plugs in the boot are tricky at times. A new battery takes that out of the equation. You might lose some setting and need to do a relearn ? Hopefully a fresh battery gets you to a point you can start your car and move forward. Do check the immobiler ( kill switch) button if your car has one. As for your c-teck, some have internal fuses most have external. There is a small fuse in the cigar tip that plugs into your boot. If you had a GFI fault power failure, it might have blown that small 3-5 amp fuse. Good luck

 

The latest word (from my mechanic, who put in the latest battery) is that the only way to go at this point is to reach the terminals on the actual battery and use an actual charger for 24 hours to get the battery back. Until then, it is isolated from the entire car, and no button push or reset can happen because there is no residual power to activate that. Charger ordered...here in 24 or so, then push the car out of the garage and dig into reaching the battery (not fun I hear...given the seat will only tilt forward without any power).