Color Anodizing or powdercoating the wheel lips?
#1
12-14-2006, 04:48 AM
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: SF bay area
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Color Anodizing or powdercoating the wheel lips?
Can color anodizing be better than powdercoating the wheel lips?
(for example: the blue murcielago with the blue lipped Iforged rims)
Anodizing would be easier to clean correct- but of course is more costly?
But i know powdercoating could chip.....
Which would you do and why?
the reason I am asking is becuase i'm getting tired of cleaning my polished lip all the time......i hate it, especially after the rain
(for example: the blue murcielago with the blue lipped Iforged rims)
Anodizing would be easier to clean correct- but of course is more costly?
But i know powdercoating could chip.....
Which would you do and why?
the reason I am asking is becuase i'm getting tired of cleaning my polished lip all the time......i hate it, especially after the rain
#2
12-14-2006, 03:29 PM
I feel your pain. I had the inner-barrel of my wheels anodized black. It's a matte finish (looks great if I say so myself). The outer lip remains polished. Although powdercoating is very tough, it can chip unlike the anodized finish. That's the main reason I decided to anodize instead of powdercoat. I've never heard of doing either process to the outer lip of the wheel (not to say it can't be done). I'd also ask what type of polish/ luster you can get out of the anodizing if you proceed with that option on the outer lip. I'm assuming your outer lip is polished. If that's the case, try a clearcoat option or just keep them waxed and give a quick wipe down when you get home. It can be very difficult if it's your daily driver.
#3
12-14-2006, 04:57 PM
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: SF bay area
Posts: 2,096
Rep Power: 104
ya its my daily driver, so i usually use Mothers stuff to clean the lips after washes.......just starting to be a PIA all the time
#4
12-14-2006, 09:30 PM
Originally Posted by ThisFlyGuy
ya its my daily driver, so i usually use Mothers stuff to clean the lips after washes.......just starting to be a PIA all the time
Anodizing looks great initially but eventually starts to fade and will show stains (i.e- if your hands are dirty while your washing your wheels, the dirt from your hands will stain the wheel permanetly).
#5
12-15-2006, 05:53 PM
"Anodizing looks great initially but eventually starts to fade and will show stains (i.e- if your hands are dirty while your washing your wheels, the dirt from your hands will stain the wheel permanetly)."
Please explain. This has not been my experience with anything that has an anodized finish. Anodizing is a durable and hard finish, which doesn't soak up anything. I had the inner-barrels anodized on my wheels, and they clean up perfectly.
Please explain. This has not been my experience with anything that has an anodized finish. Anodizing is a durable and hard finish, which doesn't soak up anything. I had the inner-barrels anodized on my wheels, and they clean up perfectly.
#6
12-15-2006, 10:57 PM
Originally Posted by L Gancho
"Anodizing looks great initially but eventually starts to fade and will show stains (i.e- if your hands are dirty while your washing your wheels, the dirt from your hands will stain the wheel permanetly)."
Please explain. This has not been my experience with anything that has an anodized finish. Anodizing is a durable and hard finish, which doesn't soak up anything. I had the inner-barrels anodized on my wheels, and they clean up perfectly.
Please explain. This has not been my experience with anything that has an anodized finish. Anodizing is a durable and hard finish, which doesn't soak up anything. I had the inner-barrels anodized on my wheels, and they clean up perfectly.
Also, depending on where you live due to the climate an anodize finish can change colors, i've seen this happen to various DPE wheels, since one of their most popular finishes is Titanium Asphalt (flat anodized black), over time this finish will start to fade and look purplish..
Here some pictures:
this is what its suppose to look like:
this is what it looks like after a year especially if you live in a place where it gets colder in the fall:
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#8
12-16-2006, 07:58 PM
Originally Posted by ThisFlyGuy
i wonder if DPE is aware of this
#9
12-18-2006, 03:13 PM
what if it was hard anodized?
my buddy has an anodizing shop and he anodized his iforged wheels and ran them for over a year and there were no changes in color
it shouldnt fade like how the regular anodize does since its a different process
my buddy has an anodizing shop and he anodized his iforged wheels and ran them for over a year and there were no changes in color
it shouldnt fade like how the regular anodize does since its a different process
Last edited by wannabvan; 12-18-2006 at 03:15 PM.
#10
12-19-2006, 01:57 PM
Originally Posted by wannabvan
what if it was hard anodized?
my buddy has an anodizing shop and he anodized his iforged wheels and ran them for over a year and there were no changes in color
it shouldnt fade like how the regular anodize does since its a different process
my buddy has an anodizing shop and he anodized his iforged wheels and ran them for over a year and there were no changes in color
it shouldnt fade like how the regular anodize does since its a different process
Also, do you have pics of his wheels?
#12
12-19-2006, 10:04 PM
20C4S took the words right out of my mouth. I talked to the HRE service department today, and although they have in fact discontinued anodizing, the fading (not to be confused with "staining") is mainly caused by harsh chemicals/ wheel cleaners. Just use soap and water (luckily I have all along). I've yet to have any problems with the anodizing, considering I didn't even know about the effects of wheel cleaners. At the end of the day, there are different finishes for different applications. TFG- Let us know what you finally decide on.
Not the best photo to display the inner-barrel (black), but you get the idea.
Not the best photo to display the inner-barrel (black), but you get the idea.
#13
12-19-2006, 11:02 PM
Originally Posted by L Gancho
20C4S took the words right out of my mouth. I talked to the HRE service department today, and although they have in fact discontinued anodizing, the fading (not to be confused with "staining") is mainly caused by harsh chemicals/ wheel cleaners. Just use soap and water (luckily I have all along). I've yet to have any problems with the anodizing, considering I didn't even know about the effects of wheel cleaners. At the end of the day, there are different finishes for different applications. TFG- Let us know what you finally decide on.
Not the best photo to display the inner-barrel (black), but you get the idea.
Not the best photo to display the inner-barrel (black), but you get the idea.
You wont have a problem with "fading" since only your inner barrel is anodized, especially since direct sunlight does not hit it.
However, if you plan on anodizing the face or even the lips of your wheels you will experience fading over time caused by the sunshine during the daytime.
"Staining" on the other hand can be caused by wheel cleaners that are very acidic, even some of the ones that say they are clear coat safe, since anodized finishes dont have any type of clear coat.
#15
12-20-2006, 11:43 AM
cool site...
i like the info ....
Why do aluminum parts I send to be black anodized sometimes come back with a purple hue, and how can this be avoided?
The purple hue is an iridescent color--the result of a very thin film on the surface of the black anodized part. Other iridescent colors can be produced, and can appear even on clear anodized parts, but are most evident on black anodizing. An analogy is a black asphalt road after rain. A droplet of oil causes iridescent rings that are quite apparent on black asphalt but can hardly be seen on a light-colored concrete road.
There are a number of possible causes of the film. One is sealing ****. Hot water sealing blocks the pores of the anodic coating, thus improving its weathering resistance, reducing its adsorptive properties, and sealing in any pigment. However, some sealing product forms on the outer surface of the anodic coating. This is sealing ****. It consists of very small, needle-like crystals of aluminum hydroxide. They act as a thin film that can generate iridescent colors. Anti-**** additives for sealing baths are available, which minimize the problem. The formation of **** can be favored by high pH. The bath chemistry should be controlled as recommended by the supplier of the sealing additive. Alternatively, the **** can be wiped off. Before the invention of anti-**** additives, people used to wipe down parts with lanolin in white spirit. This temporarily masks the **** as much as it removes it. Manual removal is time-consuming and can be hard work.
Anodizing under conditions that are too aggressive can lead to iridescent effects. In particular, if the bath temperature is too high, the surface region of the porous anodic coating (the part of the coating that was first formed during anodizing) can be dissolved in the acid solution to the extent that it is very much more porous. This is called a "soft" coating. In general, anodizing at over 75?F for more than 45 minutes can produce a soft coating. A simple abrasion test to detect a soft coating is described in British Standard 6161: Part 18: 1991.
Also, purple iridescence has been seen with certain types of black dyed parts if the film thickness is too low or the dye bath is inadequately controlled. The advice of the supplier of the dye should be followed.
i like the info ....
Why do aluminum parts I send to be black anodized sometimes come back with a purple hue, and how can this be avoided?
The purple hue is an iridescent color--the result of a very thin film on the surface of the black anodized part. Other iridescent colors can be produced, and can appear even on clear anodized parts, but are most evident on black anodizing. An analogy is a black asphalt road after rain. A droplet of oil causes iridescent rings that are quite apparent on black asphalt but can hardly be seen on a light-colored concrete road.
There are a number of possible causes of the film. One is sealing ****. Hot water sealing blocks the pores of the anodic coating, thus improving its weathering resistance, reducing its adsorptive properties, and sealing in any pigment. However, some sealing product forms on the outer surface of the anodic coating. This is sealing ****. It consists of very small, needle-like crystals of aluminum hydroxide. They act as a thin film that can generate iridescent colors. Anti-**** additives for sealing baths are available, which minimize the problem. The formation of **** can be favored by high pH. The bath chemistry should be controlled as recommended by the supplier of the sealing additive. Alternatively, the **** can be wiped off. Before the invention of anti-**** additives, people used to wipe down parts with lanolin in white spirit. This temporarily masks the **** as much as it removes it. Manual removal is time-consuming and can be hard work.
Anodizing under conditions that are too aggressive can lead to iridescent effects. In particular, if the bath temperature is too high, the surface region of the porous anodic coating (the part of the coating that was first formed during anodizing) can be dissolved in the acid solution to the extent that it is very much more porous. This is called a "soft" coating. In general, anodizing at over 75?F for more than 45 minutes can produce a soft coating. A simple abrasion test to detect a soft coating is described in British Standard 6161: Part 18: 1991.
Also, purple iridescence has been seen with certain types of black dyed parts if the film thickness is too low or the dye bath is inadequately controlled. The advice of the supplier of the dye should be followed.